Reply With QuoteRocketboy, do NOT start the car if the cams aren't alingned. Bent valves will happen. Which wheel ( cam sprocket?) are you referring too?
Great write up.
Rocketboy, do NOT start the car if the cams aren't alingned. Bent valves will happen. Which wheel ( cam sprocket?) are you referring too?
Your car more than likely jumped timing. That means your car more than likely has bent valves.Originally Posted by rocketboy90
What if the alignment tool doesn't line up with the cams after I put the notches together on the wheel.
i finish timing chains on my car but forgot to buy the flywheel bolts and i am dead in the water till next Sunday,my day off to finish this.
am gonna check a 1997 vr6 jetta glx and the owner told me that it has a bad valve and thats it.
he is asking $1300 is tht a good deal???
Why is it necessary to remove the spark plugs? I just replaced mine--can I reuse the crush gaskets?
I paid $1500 for a 2000 VR6 Jetta that needed new timing components. Car has 115k miles on it and is a 5 speed.am gonna check a 1997 vr6 jetta glx and the owner told me that it has a bad valve and thats it.
he is asking $1300 is tht a good deal???
I'd try to get him down to 1k or so but thats just me.
Its not necessary to remove the spark plugs. The only reason that step is in there is so that it is easier to rotate the engine with the breaker bar or ratchet on the crankshaft. If you can rotate the engine with the spark plugs installed, go ahead and do it.
I referenced this thread heavily when I did my upper chain guide replacement back in '07.
Now, i'm getting ready to drop the tranny and do the full kit and will again have this thread up on a laptop and just wanted to say thanks to the OP. good job, man and deserving of recognition.
Keurig...because landfill.
iPhone4 + this thread = awesome sauce. Pics are super clear and it displays just enough at a time on screen. Do a couple steps....scroll....couple more steps....drink beer....scroll.
i just did my timing chains and when the intermediate sprocket is at 6 oclock the arrow is dead on and cam tool goes in fine...but when the intermediate sprocket is at 12 oclock its off by a 1 mm i can put the cam tool in but the crank has to be moved just a little bit....the bottom end is also in time too.....
recently had timing done, afterwards developed an oil leak. i believe it is coming from the upper tensioner bolt and the crush washer attached. how likely would this be to leak if it was not replace when the timing was done? also would i be able to change out this bolt and washer/seal with out taking apart the rest of my timing? i.e. locking cam shafts in place, removing valve cover/timing covers? Thanks in advance
instagram @jimmypio
1. That upper hydraulic tensioning bolt and crush washer should be changed each time you replace those chains.
2. You should be able to verify if the oil is truly leaking from the tensioner by simply viewing the rear of the upper chain cover. You should not have obstructed view there... if you do then use a mirror. A more common location for leaks to develop after doing the chains is at one/more of the seams of that upper cover itself.
3. You might have deformity of the crush washer leading to an oil leak. Definitely possible to have a leak at that location as the chain (saturated in oil) is bypassing that exact loaction.
4. Yes, lock the cams, verify that all chain slack is to the rear of the cams (ie firewall side of the cams any slack, intermediate gear to frontal cam gear taught); replace & bleed new tensioner then torque to required spec.
"OP sounds like a MKIV guy"
Yeah, i have a leak and it could be either will check after work if its the cover should i just remove the cover reseal it and put it back on?
instagram @jimmypio
Very usefull guide thanks
Done my timing chains a few nights ago and came across the problem of the new style tensioner bolt not fully screwing into the hole, was just wondering if there was a guide on how to fix this problem or is it a case of just taking the cover off and either tapping it or getting a dremmel into it?
Cheers Stephen
Yes, I've just removed the upper cover taking care not to damage the head gasket. Clean up all mating surfaces and use a sealant being sure not to allow any of it into the chain area to contaminate things. Otherwise stated as... don't go overboard with the silicone and have excess being compressed into the chain area.
Someone was just asking this question, tap it out and you will be fine.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...Tensioner-bolt
"OP sounds like a MKIV guy"
What a hero thanks very much mate!
Silly question, when turning the crank shaft to get to top dead center, do you turn it 2 times from its current position? Or do you line up the notch and arrow, then turn it 2 times?
you'll know it's right when you can see the notch in the intermediate sprocket as described, and both slots at the end of the camshafts are sitting level with the head. like - - this is what the vr6 cam tool is for, btw.
Keurig...because landfill.
by far the best write for something that has always been intimidating and I can say I have confidence that I can do this myself. Thank you!
Having the same issue on my 2001 GTI vr6 @ 165K. Can anybody help?I have a 99.5 jetta vr6 12v and my engine is misfiring on cylinders 1,3,5 I listened to the clip and it sounds exactly like the clip. My mechanic tells me my rails are shot i assume he means the guide rails? any advice?
Initially got the misfires from a cracked coil pack in the rainy weather, so after epoxying the coil pack (again), the CEL went away after 3 warmup cycles as expected. Yet, i still felt there was a minor misfire happening (most noticeable at around ~1800-2000 RPM), but with not enough to trigger CEL. The misfires got worse and my GTI was slowly turning into a WRX... Thought that my coil pack was shot altogether, so I replaced it with a new one. That didn't help. Got VCDS, reset all DTCs, and now getting what dkrone223 is seeing in his 99.5 jetta -- misfires on cylinders 1, 3, and 5.
I was getting a noise similar to that of VgRT6's first post a timing chain noise thread, but the noise was less pronounced, so I didn't worry about it. Until now.
If the rattling noie is worse, then the guide rails are probably the cause. If you've never done the chains by 165K...you for sure need to do 'em. Your misfires are all on the aft bank of the engine so that sounds (to me) like that camshaft jumped a tooth which could happen if either the tensioner or badly worn/broken rails allow too much slack in the upper chain. Have you had to push-start it recently?
By the way, I took my old upper timing chain and the new one and hung them side by side from a level pipe and could see the difference in length.
I am at 125K on my '00 and all of the lower guides are A-OK. I had a broken upper guide rail at 98K which I replaced along with a new tensioner bolt and those are doing fine almost 30k later.
Keurig...because landfill.
No, I haven't had to push-start it in a long while. Interestingly, the misfiring was getting worse gradually. One thing i do remember is my friend trying a different firing order, which caused a bad misfire and that may have pushed it over...
So, would it be a good idea to check compression (for valve problems) before digging into the engine?
Sure why not. Always good to know your motor's status...I assume you're trying to see if it's worth fixing...comp test is easy.
Another easy check is to see where the cams are sitting with the engine at #1 TDC. For this, you'll need to remove the upper intake manifold and the valve cover. Set the crank to Piston 1, TDC and check the alignment notches at the end of the cams (see the picture under step #8)
If the notches are tilted to the left, then your chains are stretched or the rails and/or tensioner bolt are worn. Time to replace.
If the notches are not equal (meaning one is level and one isn't -or- neither are level but to different degrees) then you have jumped a tooth at the cam drive sprocket.
Last edited by vr6pilot; 10-20-2011 at 10:47 AM.
Keurig...because landfill.
Can I leave my engine in the car while I do this? Or do I have to take it out?
If you are just checking the position of the cams, you can do it all under the hood.
Getting the upper intake manifold off can be a painintheass if your SAI pump is still in there but that is still way easier than pulling the motor. Also, pulling off the bumper skin and at least looseninig the lock carrier (radiator support) to increase the working space between radiator and engine makes it alot less aggravating.
Replacing the chains, guides, and rails requires separating the block from the transmission. You can PM me with what ya find. My motor is dangling from an engine hoist right now so I can help you with any guidance.
Keurig...because landfill.
So fr this has been most informative, until I get to removing the lower cover. I have removed thermostat housing and I still do not see the lower 8 bolts. Any help please
i don't have a egr valve...for some reason it doesn't have one i have a 98 vr6 12v gti
I am in the midst of replacing the timing chain assembly in my son's '01 Jetta VR6 and have stumbled across a problem. I am at Step 30 of the Timing Chain DIY instructions which speaks about verifying the crankshaft timing. When I align the ground tooth on the crankshaft sprocket with the split in the main crankshaft bearing cap the notch on the crankshaft pulley does not align with the timing mark on the engine block. Conversely, when I align the crankshaft pulley notch with the timing mark on the block the ground tooth on the crankshaft sprocket does not align with the split in the main crankshaft bearing cap. Given this discrepancy, which alignment should I "believe"? I'm inclined to go with the sprocket/bearing cap alignment, thinking that perhaps the crankshaft pulley is not installed correctly (unless it is "idiot-proof" because the pulley is keyed and can only be installed one way on the crankshaft). Any assistance would be appreciated.
ok i did my timing chains on my 98 vr6 gti and start from the crank and work your way up
1st. put lower timing chain cover on notice the timing mark on outside of cover!
2nd.put flywheel on it only goes on 1 way!
3rd notice the timing mark on the side of the flywheel
4th line the two marks up! now make a mark that is visible w/o either the flywheel or the cover installed this way you dont have to do all of the above to check your self. uninstalled both.
5th turn the intermediate sprocket to the lower alignment mark on the sprocket to the block.
6th install lower chain with both marks lined up
7th attach your cam alignment tool by sliding it in the passenger side slots so that they lay flush with the top of your head.
8th install top chain
9th check all your marks thay should all be on point
install covers and manually spin motor on pulley side and check your marks
the intermediate can align 180in or out(top or bottom)
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mark on the lower cover that lines up with the mark on the flywheel edge
does this fact sheet also apply for the mk3 12v vr6 engines...
Is there a tranny removal DIY thread here anywhere? or is everything I need to know in the bently manual? Im replacing my upper, lower chains, rails and tensioners so Im doing my clutch while im down there too. Thanks!
bentley has it all.
Keurig...because landfill.
well after abit of searching I found a couple transmission removal DIY threads that might help too.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...ch-Replacement
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...t-2000-GTI-vr6
didn't read all so sorry if this has been answered but i have a 98 vr6 engine. slight noise from 1000-1200 like this diy says the noises typically have. Its there if you listen hard for it. do i have to replace the chains? i get yes's and no's. Thanks
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